Sunday, July 13, 2008

WYD Day Three recap

Bishop Michael Sheridan, with (l-r) Las Vegas Bishop Joseph Pepe, St. Paul Parish pastor Father Bob Jaeger and Total Catholic Education director Michelle Maher, greets a woman who asked for his blessing at a Starbucks coffee shop in downtown Seoul, South Korea, July 13. (Herald photo by Bill Howard)



As expected, we got a much better idea of Korean Catholicism today before we hop on our plane for a red eye flight to Sydney. The day began with Bishop Sheridan celebrating Mass for a nearly full sanctuary at Myeong-dong Cathedral. The cathedral was the first Latin-style cruciform church in Korea and was built in 1898. The remains of many martyrs are buried in a crypt underneath. The church is currently undergoing a major renovation and a huge scaffold with cloth covers the front half of the church.

Bishop Sheridan's homily at the parish's regularly scheduled English-language Mass was brief but very inspiring. He talked about the Gospel reading where Christ warns his apostles yet again that they will be persecuted for their faith. While there was a flurry of early interest in Jesus' ministry, he was abandoned by many during his final days -- including by many of his apostles. So it is the reality today in which we are sometimes called to spread the Word. Emotions that can come with the euphoria of being immersed in World Youth Day can quickly fade once it's over, so it is important that the Word be rooted firmly in our hearts.

Some interesting notes about the Mass:

-- There was an atmosphere of reverence prior to Mass. You didn't hear much loud chatter around the sanctuary and, just before Mass began, a clear, quick announcement was made for everyone to turn off their cell phones -- with a reminder of the sacredness of the Mass. Thought that was nice and I don't recall any ringtones going off during Mass.

-- For the offertory hymn, they placed baskets at the front and middle of the church and everyone got up and dropped off their tithe. And when I say "they," I mean pretty much everyone did get up... it took as long as the reception of Communion. I've this tried in the U.S. at times, usually with a request to make an intention for a campaign of some sort. Never seems to get a decent response, at least nowhere on the level of what I saw here with the collection. Here in Seoul, maybe there's an element where nobody wants to be seen not giving something... or maybe they really want to give (which I like better). I am curious as to why this works well here and not in the U.S. Regardless, it was very interesting.

-- There were lots of bad sightlines with the huge, gothic-style cruciform church (it wouldn't have been aided with in-the-round seating), so there were flatscreens every 10 or so pews along the sides of the church.

-- Didn't see much holding hands during the Our Father by the locals. For those who did, it looked more like immediate families and friends.

-- For the sign of peace, everyone turned and bowed to each other. I really like the bow, as to me it has a special sense of reverence for the dignity of each person, that we are created in God's image -- a reality so awesome that each of us should be respected and never treated like an object.

-- The priests and servers processed in and out from behind the altar and not down the center aisle. The residing priests were outside to greet everyone.

-- There were young women in white robes with a black cross who seemed to act as ushers. They sat on the ends of the front pews of their sections. One neat thing was, when the priests processed down the center to distribute Communion to the back half of the church, the women bowed until the Eucharist had passed.

-- During the Eucharistic Prayer, the jingling bells that we are used to in the U.S. were replaced with a single, long knock of a small gong. The lingering of the ring drew me in farther to the moment. This isn't to criticize our bells at all... I love them, but this was very different... mesmerizing and just very peaceful.

After Mass, everyone scattered for about three hours for last-minute shopping and sightseeing. Bishop Sheridan and a small crew sought out the nearest air-conditioned shop, which turned out first to be a Starbucks across the street and later to be an Italian restaurant a block away for lunch. Then it was on the bus to visit the Korean Catholic martyrs shrine, appropriately named "Beheading Mountain" ("Jeoldusan"), where we visited a chapel on top of the site where hundreds of Korean Catholics were brutally tortured and killed in the early decades of the church there (at one point in the 1800s, about 10,000 of the country's 23,000 Christians were killed).

Interestingly, Catholicism in Korea was started by a lay community, followed by its first priest, St. Andrew Kim Taegon (who was martyred at the age of 24). The shrine and museum held a lot of interesting artifacts from the 19th century, including letters and relics from St. Andrew Kim. After two days of jaunting around Seoul (which reminded me a lot of New York City with its neon-lit nightlife, tight streets and towering buildings over you), the shrine was an importance time to refocus on why we are going to Sydney. We will have fun, but if we don't come back from there with more zeal and confidence in sharing the Gospel, then one has to wonder if the trip was worth taking.

Talk to you soon from Sydney.

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WYD Day Three Guest Blogger: Cathy Kusman

Sunday in Korea… We are up early again and Bishop Sheridan celebrates Mass with the local community. Bishop’s homily was right on as we start this pilgrimage Our high school student tour guides are back to take us on another short shopping trip and then on the bus to the Shrine of the Korean Martyrs.

The shrine is very interesting and touching as a starting point of a pilgrimage to see that, only in the last 200 years people are standing up for their faith and being killed for it. Over 2,000 people were beheaded for the Catholic Church.

A humbling yet HOT day before we board the plane that takes us to Sydney to begin the second part of this beautiful pilgrimage to see the Holy Father. -- Cathy Kusman

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WYD Day Three Guest Bloggers: Youth roundtable


(Below) Youth from the Diocese of Colorado Springs pose with their group translators on the bank of the Chonggyechon River (top photo) in downtown Seoul, South Korea, on July 11. The river had been paved over in the early 1960s during the Korean War and was restored three years ago. (Herald photos by Bill Howard)

I passed around the laptop to our pilgrim group as we wrapped up our three-day immersion experience in Seoul, South Korea. Here are some folks who want to say hello and paint a picture of Seoul for you:


Adam Bull (age 11), St. Gabriel the Archangel Parish, Colorado Springs
I am on my first pilgrimage and I discovered Seoul was hot!

Carin Kusman, Our Lady of the Pines Parish, Colorado Springs
Seoul, Korea may have been hot and humid as we walked about the city and visited many shops, but it is a place where the Catholic Koreans are very proud of their faith. Today we had the chance to visit the Andrew Kim Shrine where we learned about the persecution of the Catholic Church and how important the Catholic faith is to the Korean people. It was amazing to see the amount of pilgrims who visit the Shrine and see the relics of the maryters. What an amazing and once in a life time event.

Alena Laput, Ss. Cyril and Methodius College Catholic Community (Univ. of Colorado-Colorado Springs)
Although the weather was uncomfortable, the young tour guides gave us energy, and an amazing look into the city in which they live.

Lauren Jones, Corpus Christi Parish, Colorado Springs
Seoul was pretty nifty. The tour guides were amazingly amazing!!! It was humid and hot but totally worth it!!! It was a great addition to the whole world youth day experance. YAY SEOUL!!!!

Hannah Heckman Ss. Cyril and Methodius College Catholic Community
Seoul was a wonderful chance to experience a culture very different from our own, but in a way that made it comfortable and fun. We walked around the city with 4 teenagers from Seoul who talked to us about their favorite movies, favorite foods and even their religions. One of the teenagers, Ashely, was Catholic—she came to an English Mass over which Bishop Sheridan presided and it was interesting to talk to her and find out what was different between the American order and the Korean order. When we went to the Shrine of the Holy Martyrs of Korea, it was especially poignant for me having made friends with Ashley and realizing that she was Catholic because of these brave men and women who suffered to allow Catholicism to survive in Korea.

Ana Carriedo, Ss. Cyril and Methodius College Catholic Community
Seoul was a fantastic opportunity to learn about Korean culture, both in Catholicism and Koreans in general. They were all so welcoming! I think the best part was going to Mass and sharing the Eucharist with people of another culture, but who shared the same faith. It was so wonderful to praise God together!

Viktoria Klassen, Ss Cyril and Methodius College Catholic Community
Being in Seoul was a fascinating experience. It was wonderful to see the Catholic faith alive and well, even across the world. The Korean people were very hospitable to us and I pray to visit them all again… even through all the heat and humidity!

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Saturday, July 12, 2008

WYD Day Two Guest Blogger: Cathy Kusman

Pilgrims from the Diocese of Colorado Springs pose with their group translators on a street block laid out like piano keys in downtown Seoul, South Korea on July 12. (Herald photo by Bill Howard)


Saturday in Korea... We are up early and celebrate Mass together. Bishop Pepe celebrates at the Myeon dong Cathedral. The day is more than hot and humid. We are greeted by high school students who are our tour guides for the day, taking us to the Chunggaechun River. The tiles along the way tell the story of the king & an early Korean war.

A trip to the traditional market is HOT but fun to shop for trinkets. Then we are off to the Gyeongbokkong Palace to tour the 700+ year old palace. A monsoon rain storm arrives as we travel from building to building. Seeing the changing of the palace guard was the highlight. It POURED RAIN….believe me, that doesn’t make it cooler. We had dinner at a wonderful traditional Korean restaurant was exciting as they cooked our meal at our table. Rest was much needed at the end of this day.

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WYD Day Two recap


Cathy Kusman's blog provided a good skeleton of what we did. Trying to recover from a monster flight and having, at most, seven hours to sleep before a full day (read: 7-8 hours of walking) was a bit aggressive. But we all survived.

Bishop Pepe's homily, which I'll touch on a little deeper in the next Herald, was an excellent opportunity to let go of the jitters and restlessness from flying and, instead, turning our focus on Christ and our ultimate destination of World Youth Day. Whether we embrace it or not, we are all called to be prophets through our baptism. Catholicism in Australia needs an injection of hope, and Sydney Cardinal George Pell is hoping the thousands of vibrant American Catholic youths can provide that injection to his own flock. We need the courage to let the Lord work in us here over the next few days.

Initial plans called for us to meet the archbishop here, as well as some Catholic young adult Koreans. However, neither panned out so our one full day in Seoul was more a sightseeing and shopping excursion. We should get a much deeper taste of Catholicism here at Sunday Mass tomorrow.

Today's word: kimchee!

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Friday, July 11, 2008

WYD Day One Guest Blogger: Cathy Kusman

Thursday, a trip to Korea. As we embark out of Denver at the wee hours of the morning, we are excited to see what God has in store. Getting 88 people thru the airport, a few lost reservations, and confusion… finally we are all on the plane & on our way. Arriving at LAX confusion immediately ensues as we can’t find the international gates. With Bishop Sheridan leading the way, we finally get there half and hour and several buildings later.

On the flight to Korea, we are well taken care of by the Korean attendants who work very hard. Our first traditional meal takes place on the plane because we are in the back and, of course, they ran out of Western-style meals. The Korean ladies next to us saw us struggling to figure out what we were doing, took our spoon and mixed up a tasty meal of heaven knows what! A little sleep and many meals later, we arrive in Korea getting through customs, finding our buses and being hit by the heat and humidity... and it is night time. YIKES!! We are off to a traditional Korean dinner together before arriving at our hotel!

We know the meal will be exciting when we arrive and the table has fish already laid out for us. Bowls of boiling water await for us to crack a raw egg into with shrimps (heads included). The adventure begins. -- Cathy Kusman

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WYD Day 1

Somewhere over the East Sea (aka Sea of Japan), about an hour from Seoul. (Herald photo by Bill Howard)


Well, we arrived in Seoul, South Korea, around 6:45 p.m. July 11 (after leaving around 8:30 a.m. July 10). Didn't actually get to the hostel until around 10:30 p.m., as our buses went from the airport to a restaurant for a late dinner. To say it was a long flight is an understatement, but at least our Colorado Springs and Las Vegas pilgrim team have a couple of days here in Seoul to adjust. We also flew to Seoul with a group from Immaculate Heart of Mary Parish in Northglenn (easy to pick out with their yellow shirts), but they along with several C.S. seminarians continued the journey to Sydney after a short layover. They've got to be hurting right now... at least surviving on adrenaline.

Not much to report at this point other than that we've made it and will be spending Saturday (Friday in Colorado) attending Mass in the morning with Bishop Joseph Pepe and Bishop Michael Sheridan concelebrating. After that, it's a laid-back day sightseeing and shopping around Seoul before dinner and rest. On Sunday, we'll attend Mass again with the bishops concelebrating and then we have about 3-4 hours more to check out Seoul before heading to the airport around 3 p.m. for a red eye flight to Sydney.

Throughout the pilgrimage, expect some guest bloggers to pop up. Several pilgrims have said they'll jump on to post some thoughts on their experience. You'll see the blogger's name in the header of the post.

Please keep us in your prayers! Say a prayer for Father Jaeger, whose bag didn't make it.

And one last bit of advice. If you ask for an exit row seat on a 747, make sure it's an aisle and not a window. Otherwise you'll get boxed in by the enormous exit door jutting out about a foot.

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Thursday, July 03, 2008

Headlines from the Seoul

In our July 18 issue, there will hopefully be a story on the diocesan WYD pilgrims’ three-day stop in Seoul, South Korea. That means a 2-3 word bang head has to be conceived for the top story spot on the front page. Struggling to find the right one, I solicited opinions from friends. Needless to say, we didn’t get very far. The leading one is: “Heart and Seoul” with a subhead referring to their generosity in taking the time to host us for what was essentially a late addition to everyone’s schedules.

Here are some rejected suggestions:
Seoul Trippin
Seoul Asylum
Soul II Seoul
Seoulja Boy
Seouldiers 4 Christ
De la Seoul
Heart & Seoul *(the leading contender for the headline)*
Seoul Train
Seoul Plane
Seoul Provider
Circque de Seouleil
Seoulcial Justice
Collective Seoul
Summer Seoulstice

Joking aside, the visit to Seoul will be an awesome experience and I am very much looking forward to sharing the faith with our brothers and sisters there. We are grateful for their generosity.

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